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Whenever curating a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee well-known high-end names. Yet, situated prominently among these culinary giants is a simple salonu found in a far-flung part of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

The little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. This accolade has made the owners utterly surprised.

“I am completely astonished,” states a owner’s son, referring to his family’s hard graft that led to their modest shop securing such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the fare, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender texture.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

It is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is set to echo beyond its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this gastronomic achievement.